J.P Modifying Advice
If you dont intend on modifying for big power but want a few things done, the best and most cost effective way to do it is by buying a Performance Panel Filter, and a Cat Back Exhhaust.
The reason I say to get a Performance Panel Filter is because Cold Air Intakes also change the intake flow (as its greater even at idle), which in turn causes the ECU to run lean up to 3K rpm, and then runs rich at revs above 3K. Although this is not true of all R33 Skylines, there are those that will get away with a C.A.I. system, but its something I'd leave alone.
For big Horse Power figures you should expect to be spending around £3,000.00 to £3,500.00 depending on parts & brands for a Stage 1 setup. As part of the Stage 1 Setup, a more durable clutch should be fitted. Exedy do clutches more suited to the new found power.
This does not include replacing the head gasket for a 1.2mm metal one, (for running boost settings above 1Bar) or the turbo, which would need replacing as it can't handle the stress of running the higher boost setting.
Once Stage 1 is complete, my personal recomendation would be to replace parts such as Thermostat, Water Pump and Oil Pump for more efficient ones.
If after the above your still not satisfied with the power, then camshafts, valves, pistons / rings, conrods, bearings and crankshaft should be replaced for reinforced ones
In 3 years of ownership the J.P. R33 has had over £2,500.00 spent on it, and so far hasnt had all the necesary parts fitted to acheive it final B.H.P aim.
Air Filters & Exhausts
Based on reputation and proven results, the Apexi Cold Air Intake is the best option for the R33 GTST.
Due to turbo charged cars not relying so much on back pressure from the exhaust, a straight through system is used to replace it. After some research into the available systems, I decided to go ahead with the JapSpeed system, from the turbo back, including the decat pipe. So far I would say its good value for money and have no complaints.
Brakes
Again this depends on how much you want to spend, and varies if you want a big brake kit conversion. The JP R33 is equipped with 3G Ultimate Braking Rotors (discs), and EBC Green Stuff pads all round.
You may have read that some people dont like using Green Stuff Pads as they arent effective enough.
I disagree with their views as I've had these pads for 3 years and they have never failed, have done very well for wear, and have dealt with the heat well also.
The only suggestion I have, is that they didnt give the brakes enough time to bed in to the discs, which can take around 500 miles before they are working to their full effect.
Green Stuff Pads are suitable for Fast Road & Track use.
As an alternative people with the dislike for the Green Stuff usually go for "Red Stuff" Pads, which are part ceramic, take longer to heat up and become fully efficient.
Red Stuff Pads are suitable for Track & Circuit use, are also road legal.
Brake Calipers & Fluid
Standard OEM 4 Pot Fixed Calipers Front & Rear are good enough, I recommend changing brake fluid every year. It is worth checking every month as brake fluid is hydroscopic, and this lessens the boiling boint, meaning the fluid will reach a temperature that it turns into a gas, which wont be subject to compression and will give you a spongy pedal.
This symptom is also known as brake fade.
When the discs have cooled down sufficiently, the pressure in the pedal will return to normal.
Unfortunatly on occasion this means replacing all rotors and pads, and of course brake fluid.
What fluid should I use? Always use the manufacturers recomendation, in this case Dot 3.
Although there are many people who have favoured Dot 5.1 "Performance" Brake Fluid, Delphi strongly advised against using it as it can cause breakdown of the other brake system components as they are not capable of dealing with the extra hot conditions they are subjected to.
With Big Brake Disc conversions, its common for the calipers to be 8 pot - Four pistons per side, which increases the friction area pressure / capacity.
More coming soon....
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