Clutch Removal / Replacing

This is most definately an experience

It can take a few hours to do, and this is with a 2 post ramp
I would strongly advise getting a proffesional to do this task if you dont have access to ramps - you dont want to be rolling about underneath your car for this, trust me.

Tools Needed:

• Circlip Pliers
• Ratchet / 2' Extension bar / 6" Extension bar
• 10, 14, 17mm sockets and a 14mm UJ socket
• 14mm spanner
• Pry bar
• Old rag / heavy duty tissue paper (aka Blue roll)

From above / inside the car

1. Disconnect Battery
2.  remove the starter motor's top bolt, from the engine bay,
3. From inside the car, remove out the bottom panel of center console (x2 screws behind the ash tray),disconnect the lighter wires, remove gearknob (twist anti clockwise or unbolt if after market on has bolts) and lift the panel out completely
4. Undo x4 10mm bolts around gearstick / floorpan
5. Using circlip pliers, remove circlip, and then lift the gearstick out completely.

From below the car

1. Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder (x2 14mm bolts) this may be removed from the rubber grommit (i think at this stage it can be done, will confirm soon) - it will be obvious wether you can or cant.
2. Disconnect the plugs that sit on top of the gearbox
3. Remove the rear prop shaft bolts (x4 14mm)
   Caution - the prop shaft may swing down, so make sure you take the weight and let it down gently.
4. Remove front prop shaft bolts (x4 14mm)
   Caution - the prop shaft may swing down, so make sure you take the weight and let it down gently. It may also leak gearbox fluid so have something like a rag at hand so it doesnt spill everywhere.
5. Remove the prop shaft support bracket (x2 14mm nuts)
   The whole prop shaft should now pull out completely, its a bit heavy and you dont want it to fall on you so be carefull.
6. Remove the exhaust support bracket (cat pipe)
7. Remove the bell housing bolts (x8 14mm -i think) including the bottom starter motor bolt. Keep them safe and in order of removal
   The top bolt on the near side front may be awkward... is awkward to get to, you will need a long extension bar and a UJ (universal joint) 14mm socket, the off side bolt is easier to get to.
8. Remove the Gearbox. Gently rock the gearbox left to right, up and down. you may need a pry bar to remove it completely.
   The gearbox is quite heavy, although I am a bit out of shape, but be warned as you dont want it to come crashing down on you.
9. Remove clutch cover (x10 -i think- 10mm bolts) and be prepared to catch the clutch plate - make a note of how the clutch plate came out of the gearbox.

Inspect the condition of the clutch plate and flywheel for wear or damage.
The flywheel may have been subject to a lot of heat (especially so if doing burnouts/ drifing or driving excessively hard on a worn clutch)
These heatspots look like a bit of rust with blue coloring around the inner edges. If its not too bad it can be sanded out with sand paper, this will also help the clutch plate "dig in" to the flywheel.

The clutch, if used to a good extent when it was worn, will have faded outer edges and be very near the rivvits. The lines in the clutch will have also worn out around the edges (usually)

Before fitting new clutch - Important

1. Measure up new components - the size of clutch plates new and old, and also clutch covers
2. Clean cover plate face - Using brake / clutch cleaner and then spray some white grease around the inside of the inside of the tension springs - clean any grease that may end up on the face.
3. Copper Slip paste the splines on the new clutch plate
4. Replace the release (or "thrust") bearing by removing the clip first - for the bearing itself you may need to place it on a vice and tap the old one off using a copper / hide hammer (the copper side).
5. Fit the new bearing

Fitting the clutch plate & Clutch cover

1. Use a clutch plate alignment tool, and offer it up to the flywheel.
2. Fit the cover plate - Tighten bolts in opposites, you will notice the tension arms "close up" as you do tighten, dont do them all tight straight away, just nip them up gently, once theyr all nipped up, they can be tightened
3. Remove Clutch Plate Alignment Tool

Refitting everything

1. Reverse steps 7 to 1 from removal
2. Check gearbox oil level and top up if necesary.

I will say this, it was a hell of a lot easier to type up how to do it, than it is to actually do. It may look like simple steps, but theres the messing about with a bolt you cant reach adequately enough to deal with, I wouldnt say its totally unreasonable to end up spending 3 1/2 hours to do - but then the more you do it, the quicker you get at it.

Pics will come soon, i didnt take any while doing the job as it was getting late and i didnt want to spend any longer than i had to on it.