Changing Springs/ Dampers

The "how to"

Disclaimer : I may not be held responsible in any way for any damage to the vehicle or personal injury that may occur as a result of using these guides.

For this you will need the following tools.

• Car jack & axle stands/ wheel chocks
• A pair of mole grips
• Spanners - 12mm 14 mm 17mm
• Sockets - 12mm 10mm 17mm (and a rathet, 3/8 drive preferably standard size and stubby ratchet. short extension (3")
• Spring compressors
• Medium lever bar or screw driver (flat head)
• Tipp -Ex or similar paint

Rear Suspension
Estimate of time start to finish
Novice - 4 hours
Amateur - 2 hours
Me - 1.5 hours
There are two 12mm bolts securing the bottom seat, undo these and keep them safe (label them if you feel you need to). Using the lever bar or screw driver to prise apart the bottom of the seat (it will be tight). Lift the front of the seat and pull towards you, then out completely and put it somewhere where it wont get dirty.

There are now two 10mm bolts holding the backrest in located near the seat belt harness bolts. Undo these and lift the backrest up toward the roof (there are 3 hooks holding it in. With pressure it will lift out.

On both sides you will be able to see the top rubber covers of the struts, with two metal frames with a 10 mm bolt nearest to you; if you undo them you can move the frame to one side, for easier access to the mounting nuts for the strut.
Remove the strut covers and you will see the two 12mm nuts - undo these (youl have fun with either choice of 12mm spanner or socket & stubby ratchet).

Now all that is holding in the struts are the 17mm bolts located at the bottom of the struts - undo these and remove, you may need the lever bar to prise away from its mounting (towards the centre of the car on both sides).

Mark the struts mounting nut location with tipp ex or paint and the indent where the spring sits at the bottom on the strut.

Attach the spring compressors to the 2nd and 4th coils, and in a way that the compressors are opposite each other. Wind them in with 5 even turns on either side at a time (to keep compression levels equal at all times) until the spring can move freely within the strut.

 Compressed spring, note the gap between the spring and rubber mount.

With the mole grips, attach them to the top 5mm lobe, and undo the 14mm nut with the spanner until it can be removed. Remove all the top cup components and keep the in order, so you can put them back on exactly as they came off. - The spring can now be seperated from the strut.

Now you can de compress the spring (5 times each side again, until compressors can be removed safely). Compress the new springs, and place into the strut (either new or the same one you have). Then its a case of reversal of the proceedure.

Front strut & spring removal

By far a lot easier than the rears! Open up the bonnet and you will see the two 14mm nuts holing the strut to the chassis. Undo these, and then the lower 17mm nut on the inner of the wheel arch; then remove the strut.

Mark the struts mounting nut location with tipp ex or paint and the indent where the spring sits at the bottom on the strut.

Attach the spring compressors to the 2nd and 4th coils, and in a way that the compressors are opposite each other. Wind them in with 5 even turns on either side at a time (to keep compression levels equal at all times) until the spring can move freely within the strut.

With the mole grips, attach them to the top 5mm lobe, and undo the 14mm nut with the spanner until it can be removed. Remove all the top cup components and keep the in order, so you can put them back on exactly as they came off. - The spring can now be seperated from the strut.

Now you can de compress the spring (5 times each side again, until compressors can be removed safely). Compress the new springs, and place into the strut (either new or the same one you have). Then its a case of reversal of the proceedure.

Pics coming soon

Upper Wishbone, Carrier & Hub Removal / Refit.

Tools:
Spanners 14, 17, 19 & 21mm
Wrench & 17mm socket
Ball Pin Hammer
Lever Bar
Estimate of time start to finish
Novice - 3 hours
Amateur - 2 hours
Me - 1 hour

Loosen Wheel nuts
As per usual jack the vehicle (and theres me using ramps) at the jacking points, using axle stands to secure the vehicle, chocking the rear wheels with blocks.

Remove the wheel and turn the steering so you get easier access to the steering / track rod end nut & split pin. Remove the split pin and undo the castle nut.
Use the Ball pin hammer (flat side) and hit the side of the track rod to hub connector area - the arm should fall downward. Inspect the track rod for movement & grease leaks, replace as necesary.

There are 3 x 12mm bolts holding the brake pipe plate to the hub assembly just undo them for now.

Now turn the steering in the opposite direction; This will give access to the Caliper Carrier bolts (2x19mm) Remove the bolts, and then release the backing plate (for brake pipe, but only the 2 nearest the caliper need to be removed)

The caliper should now be able to be pulled away from the disc/ rotor, use a cable tie to secure it to the anti roll bar. There is a short piece of copper brake pipe which you should take extra care over, you dont want it snapping.

Hub to suspension arm - 22mm socket (preferable half inch drive); Remove Split pin and undo the nut, it will be tight, so be carefull. Once the nut is ready, use a lever bar to prise the suspension arm downwards, you may need to strike the side of the carrier where the ball joint attaches the same way as with the track rod end.

Undo the 17mm nut that holds the bottom strut to the hub carrier and gently pry it away with a lever bar. make sure your holding on to the carrier itself just in case.

In theory you can now move the suspension arm down, and lift the hub upwards to remove it - a few more bolts to go and your half way through the job.

For the final part of the removal, undo the 17mm bolt that attaches the hub to the upper wishbone thats closest to you (you cant miss it, its 7" long).

Once more the lever bar may be needed to pull the hub away from the upper wishbone.

To remove upper wishbone bolts, undo the 2x 14mm nuts that are holding in the suspension strut / spring assembly, make sure your holding on to the strut as it will fall.

Remove the 2x 17mm bolts located either side of the upper wishbone.

Re fitting is the reversal of removal - fit wishbone & bolts, fit suspension damper to lower carrier, rotor / disc, fit caliper, fit anti roll bar drop links, fit track rod to hub (replace split pin for a new one), tighten lower ball joint & fit new split pin, fit brake line back plate, fit road wheel. tighen wheelnuts (110 Nm).

Job Done.

Pics coming soon