Most Gauge pods are "universal fitment" - and by this it means that yes it will fit a large variety of vehicles but may have setbacks, like non flush all round fitting. You can buy manufacturer / model specific, but these can be quite pricey.

The first thing to know is what setup are you going for - ie 2 pod, or 3. And what size, 52mm or 60mm. This makes little difference, but make sure you buy the right size gauges to fit the pod!

In this case Ive gone for Air / Fuel ratio Gauge, Oil Temp (deg C) and oil Pressure (in Psi).

Tools Required:

A Multi meter
Wire strippers / side cutters / scissors
10 Metres of Red  16/0.2 gauge wire
10 Metres of Black 16/0.2 gauge wire
10 Metres of Green 16/0.2 gauge wire
1 Metre of 8 guage wire
Phillips screw driver
Some self tappin screws
Solder & Soldering Iron
Heat shrink sleeves
Plenty of Insulating tape
A pair of pliers
2 croc clips
And a whole lotta patience if this is something you havent done before.
You may even want to get a friend to help out later when fitting the pod to the pillar trim.

Before you Begin:

You will need a 12+ connection; and a good earth point for the Negative cable.

In the case of the Air Fuel Ratio gauge, its best to use the + & - wires leading into the Lambda sensor, and then the signal wire in its place.

To establish what wiire is which on the lambda sensor wiring, set the Mutli Meter to 12 or 20V readings and connect the Negative probe to a suitable Earth point.
With the engine running probe each of the 3 wires - the Positive will come up as 12-14V, Negative will be 0V and Lambda Signal will be 0.2 or something similar. Write down the wire color and any distinguishing markings (white line etc)

On the firewall (or bulkhead) there should be a large rubber grommit,  carefully pull this out enough so you can carefully pierce it with the screwdriver (being carefull not to stab yourself or damage the vehicles wiring etc)

Ready the 3 sets of wire, and tape up 3 ends. Make a loom, give yourself 2 meters to begin with.
Push the loom through the hole made in the grommit, and go to the passenger side footwell and pull through  plenty of wire - add insulting tape to make more loom as needed.

Feed the loom close to the firewall, and behind all the centre console wiring looms,  heading towards the fuse box.

Ok now working from the drivers side of the car, "feel" the pillar trim strong points by wedging your finger tips between the trim panel and the roof lining, and pull when you reach the toughest areas. I find the Center of the drivers side window, works best. You then need to pull the trim toward the passenger side, while sliding the  panel toward the front. Once youve taken the side out of the panel, the rest just lifts out.

Feed the 8 gauge wire down the rectangular slot until you can feel or see it around the fuse box area. Tape up the loom coming from the Lambda sensor and pull it back through, giving yourself plenty of "slack".

*You can repeat the process for the positive, negative and signal wires for other gauges*

Soldering:

A good connection is important, as is a good weld. I used a gas operated soldering iron and silver solder.

Strip some of the wires plastic coating from the loom, about 1/2 a cm is suffiicient. Place a tube of shrink wrap on the wire, but away from the wire to be soldered. Crock clips to be placed a few mm away from area to be soldered - these are acting as heat sincs - to not damage the wire during soldering.

Avoid twisting the wires.

Ensure the nib on the soldering iron is clean, and heat it up to operating temperature, then apply it to the wires for a few seconds, then apply a dab of solder to it. Run this over the wires so a connection it made, add little bits as necesary. but avoid blobs on the wire - simply run the soldering iron into the side of it and even it out. Allow it to cool down for a minute or so, then check the connection with a multi meter, set to continuity test.. If all is good, then place the heat shrink wrap over the join, and heat up gently with a lighter, being carefull not to burn the wire.

Once you have all the Positive, Earth and Signal wires soldered in, pull the loom back through from the fuse box area.

Holding the gauge pod next to the pillar trim, hold it in so it fits snug around to the windshield side, noteing where the wires are to avoid driving the screws through them.

Place a self taping screw against the pillar pod, and screw it in with the screw driver - it may be easier if you have a friend there to hold the pod for you. If you over tighten the screw the pod will pull away from the trim.

From the engine bay, cut back and solder in any wires that need it, and tape them up so theyr not exposed, or just "hanging around"

Now you should at least have the Air Fuel ratio gauge working. Gauges should be lit up, and no smoke coming from the wiring loom. defintately worth checking out to ensure you dont end up in a car fire.

For the Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure gauges, an oil filter sandwich plate is often used, and in which case all your gauges sould now be working.
However Im going to try a different cost effect method for this.

And this brings the guide to a close, I hope its usefull. Pics to follow soon.