Intercooler - Fitting a FMIC

Tools / Preparation

• Angle grinder / eye & hand protection
• hacksaw or air hacksaw
• sand paper
• 8, 10, 12 & 14mm sockets. Ratchet (3/8 drive) 
• Patience

This can be done with the bumper left on, with use of a ramp (which is how i did it). First things first though.

Removing OEM Intercooler

From the engine bay, undo the x2 12mm nuts located either side of the in/out pipes.

Undo the hose clips (6.5mm, 5/16 socket will do) on the elbows, and also the clips on the turbo side, and B.O.V. pipe (if you have the Blitz pipe & bov combo like i had)

There are now 4 x12mm bolts securing the OEM intercooler in, undo these and twist while pulling, but be careful. You might need to pry the rubber hose away from the pipework using a bent squewer or similar tool.

The standard inlet pipe (sits closer to the wing than the outlet) is not required if you are fitting a FMIC, so put it to one side.

Hopefully, like I did you will have kept the old outlet pipe (OEM), this needs to be cut to fit the intercooler inlet elbow. (similar to the blitz bov pipe as seen on the website)

Fitting the Front Mounted Intercooler

 Click to see the video.

Remove the washer bottle - this can be sat carefully on the top cross member. You will need to disconnect the electrical plugs for it to reach.

This bit is where the cutting starts -  the slats at the bottom of the bumper where the intercooler sits (standard one) and sand them down so theyr not rough and uneven. You also need to cut the center slats so the new intercooler will go as far up as possible. - this is the area where the bumper mounting panel sits. Simply sand away the plastic until it becomes level with the metal panel. Remember to sand down both sides - on the inside of air intake/vents that are built into the bumper as standard.

Now its metal cutting time, there are 2 chassis rails either side at the front, which the inner side needs to be removed with an angle grinder or disc cutter. This will help the intercooler to go higher up into the front.

Using the brackets supplied with the fitting kit, bolt in the bottom of the intercooler to the chassis. - You might have to drill new holes in the brackets if it doesnt line up.

So now the intercooler should be sitting nicely behid the bumper.

Using the side piece, offer it up to the intercoolers join, and mark the inner wing where you will be cutting a square for the pipe to through, and into the engine bay area.

The side pipe can now be fitted properly with the rubber joins, needless to say its obvious where the last pipe fits - into the inlet manifold. you might have to bend the attaching bracket for it to fit snug, without the fan blade tips fouling the pipe.

NOTE: There is no bleed nipple fitted to this pipe, so I had to drill into an appropriate section a 9mm hole, and fit a nipple using a brake pipe join and a threaded nipple end, and x2 fibre washers (plastic) for the boost control solenoid Clear the pipe out thoroughly with water so no alloy splinters go into the head.

Now for the last bit of pipe, and the hard works almost over.

Tighten all the clips making sure all hoses are correctly fitted and not leaking.

So now you should have a fully fitted FMIC. The top brackets of the intercooler have not been fitted to my car, as it fits in really well and doesnt budge at all, I would advise as a precautionary measure to fit these. Personal choice.

I havent reset my E.C.U. but I can safely say theres a very noticeable difference to the cars performance, and the only problem Ive had is pipes popping off during testing after fitting, so make double sure theyr all tight!!